240 volt or 12 volt Halogen Downlights

Halogen, General Technical Stuff August 30th, 2006

14 Responses to “240 volt or 12 volt Halogen Downlights”

1. Daniel Says:
   August 30th, 2006 at 1:44 pm

   Dear Arun,

   Well Well Well. I was wondering how long it would take before someone asked me to put something in writing about this very sensitive subject. Warning: you might read something here that the manufacturers don’t want you to hear!

   There are many many factors which may help you decide which way to go:-

   12 Volt lights (with transformers) will handle voltage changes much better than 240 Volt lights (no transformer). If a globe (lamp) is run at higher voltage the lamp life is reduced substantially. GU10 lamps (240V halogens) are subject to frequent failures due to changes in voltages! 12V halogens will handle voltage changes better as the transformer acts as a “buffer”.

   Both 240V and 12V halogens run extremely hot. Both can cause fires if not fitted correctly (I would advise the use of a halogen downlight guard available from my website). With the high heat output, this will also increase the ambient temperature (all be it a small increase) but could increase cooling costs in summer slightly?

   The range of 12 volt halogen lamps is far superior to that available in 240 volt. When I say that, I am talking about available wattages, beam widths and also life expectancy. For example I have not come across a 5,000 hour or a 10,000 hour 240V (GU10) halogen. In fact the best I have found is a mere 2,000 hours. Another example is that we offer an energy saving version (30%) of the 12V halogen but this feature does not exist for the 240V halogen.

   Both styles of lamps are pretty in-efficient in term of light output per watt. With the transformer there is also a slight energy loss there too!

   There is a far greater range of light fittings available for low voltage halogens as opposed to mains voltage halogens. You will probably therefore find that the fitting costs could be slightly less for low voltage than mains voltage.

   Installation cost for the two is going to be about the same

   I was at a lighting seminar and a representative from a major lamp manufacturer spoke. He said “If your customers are looking at 240 volt halogens, tell them not too! The technology is just not there yet,”

   But the real reason I ask you, is why do you want halogen lighting anyway? I would have a serious look around, particularly at new energy efficient lighting. But that is a different story completely!

   If you like the look of the halogen down lights, then I would definitely be installing the ones with transformers.

   I hope I have made your decision a little easier.

   If I can be of further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact me.

   Kind regards,

   Daniel Purser
   Lighting Expert
   Lighting Pro Australia
   http://www.lightingpro.com.au

2. neil Says:
   November 14th, 2006 at 11:19 pm

   Dear daniel,
   I want to install downlights into my house.I have two questions my house was built in ‘76 it has a red,black and white cable setup for the lighting,considering the halogens dont cater for an earthing point do I leave it out,I tried to do this and the switch didnt work.Next question is my house has that fluffy insulation in the roof is it dangerous to use transformers in the roof is their a fire risk?

3. jack Says:
   November 17th, 2006 at 4:43 pm

   Thank you very much,
   I am going to change all the 240 Volt lights in the house with 12 Volt lights .
   I’ve changed around 30 bulbs during last two years, very bed experience..It’s shame I didn’t read this at that time of installaion, would you please let’s me know what is the good quality of 12 Volt lights and the bulbs? thanks

4. Ed Montocchio Says:
   January 8th, 2008 at 9:04 pm

   Hi,

   I have a problem. I have had Isotherm insulation installed in my roof. I have 50 x 50w halogen downlights and insulation is touching the fittings - concerned about fire hazard.

   I have seen your fire hoods - but at AUD20 a shot it is extremely expensive to install (times 6 to SA Rand)

   Is there a cheaper option like installing a 150mm ring of steel around each downlight to restrain the insulation from touching the bulb.

   Thanks
   Ed

5. CP Says:
   June 9th, 2008 at 8:12 pm

   Hi there, I am tending to disagree about the 12V (with transformer) halogens, as I have these installed and also one set of 240V (mains power) lights installed… in the past year, I have changed ALL of the 12V bulbs SEVERAL times over (as well as they all have scary black marks around them), and I have NOT CHANGED A SINGLE 240V bulb! Eventually, I’ll be replacing the whole house with non-halogen lighting, but for now, I would definitely recommend the performance of the 240V fittings above the 12V, because the 12V burn out very frequently.

6. Daniel Says:
   June 13th, 2008 at 7:29 pm

   Hi Ed

   I am not familiar with the rules and regs of South Africa but in Australia we have new wiring rules that stipulate the use of the a guard around halogen downlights to prevent fire.

   We have seen all types of weird and wacky ideas of how people have come up with their own solutions to prevent of chances of fire in the roof but they are not approved methods by any stretch of the imagination

   These guards are made of non conducting nylon as I am sure that steel or metal which conducts the heat would also be a problem.

   If regulations are not an issue in your country do whatever you need to do to make it safe but dont not do anything as this is a real issue and houses have been lost in Australia due to halogen downlights starting fires in roof spaces

   We now have flexible ones too that dont need to be fitted from the roof space which is great if you cant get into the roof

   Good luck

   Kind regards

   Daniel
   Lighting Pro Australia
   http://www.lightingpro.com.au/catalog
   http://www.lighting-store.com.au/lightshop

7. David Says:
   January 15th, 2009 at 7:52 pm

   We installed some 30 Prolite low voltage halogen luminaires in our new house some 5 years ago. Almost immediately one of them did not work (transformer u/s) and now five years later we have replaced 25% of the total number. I consider this to be excessive.
   I asked our local light retailers (2) the following questions:
   1. is there a similar but more reliable halogen light (with transformer) combination?
   2. what alternatives should I consider?

   Answer from retailer #1 - I do not supply Prolite low voltage halogen luminaires anymore because of the unreliability - I recommend an alternative which has the same light design but a replaceable transformer (in a casing some 100mm diameter).
   Answer from retailer #2
   We do not stock 12v halogen anymore - they are old technology and are being replaced with 240v low energy globes.

   Do you have any comment and advice?

8. Andrew Says:
   January 22nd, 2009 at 1:11 pm

   Daniel,

   You mentioned more energy efficient alternatives to halogen downlights. I have double-story high ceilings, with large J-tube halogens currently shining upwards from half-way up the wall bouncing off the roof to light the spacious apartment.

   I’m after more energy efficient options and was recommended to consider 12v halogens being told no compact fluro bulb arrangement would have enough output and throw to light my place. What’s your opinion?

   My considerations are:
   * Brightness
   * Energy efficiency
   * and Warm glow

   in that order.

9. Daniel Says:
   February 8th, 2009 at 1:51 pm

   Hi Andrew

   Those J tube halogens dont last long and use a lot of power dont they?

   I would have a look at these type fittings http://lighting-store.com.au/lightshop/product_info.php?products_id=225 or http://lighting-store.com.au/lightshop/product_info.php?products_id=228

   Metal halide lights are one of the most efficient lighting sources around (light ouput/energy consumption). The globes are also available in warm and cool colours.

   You didnt mention the wattage you are using but a Linear Halogen 300 watt produces 5000 lumens of light and the 500 watt produces 9500 lumens. In comparison the 70 watt metal halide lamp 5200 lumens and the 150 watt produces 12000 lumens

   As you can see by converting light fittings the energy savings will quickly pay for the new light fittings

   One problem is that these cannot be dimmed and the globes are a little expensive however the globes will last around 10,000 hours or more

   If you need any further info let me know

   Kind regards

   Daniel
   daniel@lightingpro.com.au

10. Barry Pugh Says:
    February 16th, 2009 at 7:16 am

    Daniel. Re 12 volt downlights.I have them in our kitchen.One of them keeps going off & on. I changed the bulb & 12v lead. Would it be the transformer.Its a ATCO
    LVL27A-2 about 10 years old. I have been told new ones are smaller & lighter. Would like to know the cost.
    Thanking you Barry

11. Daniel Says:
    February 20th, 2009 at 1:29 am

    Hi Barry

    Two things could be happening.

    1> There is a thermal cut off in the transformer that will cut the light if it gets too hot. Perhaps the transformer doesnt have good air flow around it

    2> Secondly your transformer is very old and could be past its use by date. You will find that if one goes then the others in your house will start to follow soon too

    If you need to replace it have a look at the Osram Redback Downlight Transformer

    Let me know how you get on

    Kind regards

    Daniel

12. JohnA Says:
    May 18th, 2009 at 11:27 pm

    Hi, we are in our new home and our downlights are missing heat hoods. Can anyone tell me what the regulations are as I’m getting conflicting excuses from builders.

13. Daniel Says:
    May 18th, 2009 at 11:38 pm

    Hi John

    There shouldnt be conflicting excuses at all. There are new wiring rules which are very specific and detailed. There is no room for grey here! If they are not installed properly there is a risk of fire!

    A summary can be found here http://lightingpro.com.au/ask/australia_new_zealand_wiring_rules_asnzs_3000/

    But if you Google ASNZS 3000 Wiring Rules you will find a lot more info

    It sounds like he didnt know the rules and didnt allow for it when he quoted the wiring perhaps

    Let me know if you need anything else

    Kind regards

    Daniel

14. rob Says:
    October 30th, 2009 at 10:52 am

    For the average householder with little experience with electrical, a good rule of thumb is keep your downlights at least 300mm away from any flammable materials, this includes battens and trusses, some dodgy intalls have the down lights touching against or under trusses and battens which is not good at all, working in electrical i see a lot of existing lights with evidence of excessive heat, sometimes burn or scorch marks, for the sake of the small cost of a light hood in the ceiling space, you can help protect your house against fire, which spreads rapidly in ceiling spaces. i definately recommend them

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