Why Wouldn’t I Install GU10 Halogens in my house!
General Technical Stuff October 25th, 2007
As I am sure you can appreciate being in the lighting industry I have
access to all sorts of fittings and lamp technologies. Some are great
and some not so great. The GU10 halogen I am afraid definitely gets
rated in the latter category
There are a few reasons why the GU10 halogen is a dud and here they are
in no particular order.
The first reason is cost. GU10 halogens are much more expensive than 12
Volt halogens. The reason for this is simple. There are a lot more low
voltage halogens manufactured in the world and hence the cost is lower.
The next reason they are a dud is their very poor light output. A 240
Volt 50 watt GU10 halogen puts out 800 candelas of light. The equivalent
12 volt low voltage halogen puts out 1450 candelas. As you can see the
light outputs between the two cannot be compared – the 12 volt wins
hands down!
Another good reason not to go down the 240V halogen path is the lack of
range of globes available. There are only 2 different types of 240 volt
halogen available which are 35 watt and 50 watt. You don’t have a choice
in beam widths, wattage or lamp life. In 12 volt halogens you have a far
greater choice in lamp quality and type and can even buy a globe that
will last 10,000 hours. This is not possible with 240 volt halogens.
Lamp life is one of the most important factors to consider when choosing
between halogen lighting systems. The 240 volt halogen has a very short
life. This is due to a couple of reasons. Firstly there are no long life
versions of the 240V commercially available. The other reason is the
susceptibility of the 240V version to be affected by over voltage. As
the voltage changes on the mains power system the filament in the lamps
cops the whole voltage change where the filament in a low voltage
halogen lamps only gets a percentage of the change as the voltage change
has been reduced proportionally in the transformer.
Do you want to know the worst thing about the 240 volt halogens? Once
you have installed them and you find out about all this good stuff there
is absolutely nothing you can do about it. Sure there are compact
fluorescent GU10 varieties available but they are well short of 240V
halogen light out let alone the 12 volt halogen light outputs
9 watt 2700K Compact Fluorescent Megaman GU10 – 14.4 Lux
35 watt Halogen GU10 – 78 lux
50 watt Halogen GU10 – 104 lux
Do you have a mate that said you should look at GU10 in LED? Don’t even
bother contemplating it. Sure I sell them but unless you are looking for
mood lighting and are going to use alternative lighting as your main
source then don’t go there. They are very efficient in that they don’t
use much power but you would need so many of them to get sufficient
light for every day living that the efficiency just goes out the door.
I am not saying that 12 volt halogens are the preferred lighting option
for your home either but if you like the small recessed halogen
downlight look it is certainly the way to go. I moved into a house and
the previous owner had installed downlights. After initially playing
with LED (to find it was a waste of time) I installed electronic
transformers on all the downlights (as they have less electrical loss
than the old style wire wound ones) and use 20 watt IRC halogens. They
produce as much light as the 50 watt lamps but they give me a 60% energy
saving. The other good thing is that they last 5000 hours (which is
unheard of with a 240 Volt halogen GU10).
If you want to know what I would install if I had the opportunity to
start again – that is a different story!
Hope this helps
Best regards
Daniel Purser
Lighting Specialist
http://www.lightingpro.com.au
daniel@lightingpro.com.au


October 29th, 2007 at 3:48 pm
So tell us what you would install if you had the opportunity to start again!
We are building a new house and, as standard, it comes with lots of semi-recessed halogen downlights. What alternatives are there, besides batten holders, to allow us to use some sort of efficient lighting?
mgm
– that is a different story!
January 1st, 2008 at 1:50 am
I’m currently looking for a house full (70 ‘ish) downlights for a new house and has seriously considered using the 240V GU10 Halogens until the LED GU10 technology catches up.
Also thought of using the Compact Fluorescent GU10′s.
What would you suggest- Compact Metal halide?
July 16th, 2008 at 11:55 am
How many lux from the newer 18w GU10 CFL?
July 18th, 2008 at 4:07 pm
Hi Mark
Thanks for your question
Yes Crompton have come out with a great product which is an 18 watt GU10 lamp. The bulb is a lot longer than a standard GU10 but the obvious energy savings and light output are significant.
The light output is an amazing 400 Lumens compared to 240 lumens of the 11 watt GU10 energy saving version
The bulbs are available individually but if you are looking at upgrading your existing fittings I would suggest looking at a new kit just to make sure as the globe does not suit all fittings
They are available in warm and daylight colour globes and the fittings in white and satin chrome
http://lighting-store.com.au/lightshop/product_info.php?cPath=75&products_id=772
Should you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to ask
Kind regards
Daniel
http://www.lightingpro.com.au/catalog
http://www.lighting-store.com.au/lightshop
November 8th, 2008 at 5:52 pm
we already have installed GU10 fittings. what light bulbs would you recomend for the max light output? currently we have 9w ACE CF-XJG-9.
November 10th, 2008 at 1:26 pm
Hi Issaak
I am not familiar with that model please provide more info
Many thanks
Kind regards
Daniel
November 10th, 2008 at 3:18 pm
I am currently renovating a house and will need new light fittings in a few months. I like the appearance of downlights but would like to use an energy efficient system. I have been considering
1) 20 watt IRC halogens
2) 11w or 18w GU10s
3) 6 or 7 Watt LEDs
Some web sites claim that 6 watt LEDs and 11 watt CFLs put out equivalent light to a 50 watt Halogen. Is this true ?
What would you recommend if starting totally from scratch.
Regards
Allan Maher
November 11th, 2008 at 1:30 pm
Hi Allan
Out of that list of choices I would look at the IRC halogen globe. A few more manufacturers are releasing versions of these in the coming months
The 11W or 18W GU10 are expensive, cant be dimmed and the 18W protrudes through the ceiling (We sell them too but wouldnt be my first choice). The 20 watt IRC will produce equivalent light out put to the 18 watt anyway
The LEDs are just not bright enough and will not last as long as claimed. They too are also very expensive and need special transformers to run properly too
If you really want to know what I would do – drop me an email at daniel@lightingpro.com.au otherwise I will try and write a new article in the future anyway
Good Luck
Kind regards
Daniel
February 8th, 2009 at 1:06 pm
Since this article was originally published, it seems there are more LED options for 120v/240v GU10 applications.
One 6 watt LED bulb I found has the following stats:
5500 K colour temp
280 lm Lumens
550 Lux
30 degree beam
Sounds to be brighter than some GU10 50 watt bulbs, and also daylight in colour. Too good to be true? Or am I missing something?
February 8th, 2009 at 1:38 pm
Hi Ray
I think the clever marketing by the people that manufacture these things has tried to make you believe that they are brighter
Normally a globe with a reflector is measured in candelas (Not lux or lumens).
A globe without a reflector is measured in lumens.
A standard 50 watt GU10 halogen produces approximately 760 candelas. The closest comparison I could find to compare your 280 lumens of the LED is a 40 watt halogen bulb without reflector. This produces 480 lumens and if it had a reflector to focus the light the light output would be greater.
So the output of the LED is not that great also taking into consideration that a 50 watt GU10 halogen is so inefficient to start with. eg a 50 watt 12V halogen produces 1450 candelas (almost twice the light output of the GU10 halogen).
I have probably totally confused you now but my views are still the same and I stick by my original posting. LEDs are expensive, dont produce enough light and dont last as long as advertised!
Have fun
Kind regards
Daniel
March 26th, 2009 at 7:47 pm
Hi, I am having problems with 12V dichroic halogen lamplife, with most of my globes (i have tried all sorts of brands, costs and wattages) lasting less than half their stated lamp life. I have tested the voltage on the primary side of the transformer and the voltage is around 246V Constant.
What are my options for voltage regulation? Is there an inline automatic voltage regulator available or should i just get a large dimmer (1000VA)?
Any Information would be fantastic!
Regards
Justin.
April 14th, 2009 at 1:12 am
Hi Justin
There are a few reasons why this could be happening.
The voltage seems a tad high. For example 5% increase in voltage to your lamp will reduce the lamp life by 50%. So if the voltage in continuously high then you will get a very short lamp life. Really you should be checking the voltage at the low voltage end. If the transformer is faulty and the voltage is high same as above stands!
The other thing which is unrelated to voltage is the ambient temperature. Halogen bulbs (well just about any bulbs) hate getting hotter than they need to be. Check to see what the circulation is like around the light. If it is a tight space or covered with insulation – then this could be the answer.
Let me know what you find
Good luck
Kind regards
Daniel
April 22nd, 2009 at 8:17 pm
Thanks for your reply Daniel.
I have made some more investigations and have found that with all of my 12v transformers (differing brands,manufacturers and countries of origin) the secondary voltage increases proportionally with the primary voltage unfortunately. Thus the high primary voltage causes a high secondary V.
On that note, do you know of a transformers that has some sort of Voltage regulation?
The problem is i also have some problems with incandescent globes blowing really quickly as well.
Or do i need to find a way to regulate the voltage on the primary side i.e upstream of the lights?
The lights in question have no insulation around them and there is quite good airflow.
Thanks Again
Justin
April 30th, 2009 at 5:59 pm
Hi Justin
If you have a 12v light on a circuit with no other lights I would try a good quality electronic transformer like the Osram Redback. Dont mix up electronic and magnetic transformers on a single circuit otherwise you might have problems. I am sure your lamp life will increase significantly with electronic transformers
As for the incandescent lights suffering a similar fate, you should use long life bulbs for these. Ther are available in hours ranging from 2500 hours right through to 10,000 hours (Made by Aerotech in USA). The way they make long life globes is make them for a higher voltage, therefore overcoming the problem previously mentioned. Eg they are made for 250V so therefore last longer
Hope it works out
Kind regards
Daniel
May 14th, 2009 at 10:21 pm
Hi Daniel,
Thanks for your helpful information on bulb selection. I think I now understand why we have been unable to replicate the light output of 50w halogens using supposedly equivalent CFL. It seems that the comparison is being made against GU10 units and of course we are comparing against 12v units.
BTW am I right in thinking that a 20W Osram IRC is using only 10% more power than an 18W CFL but is dimmable and produces more light ( but how much).
I am about to replace a swag of 12v halogens is there a good, concise source of comparison data available?
regards
Robin
May 14th, 2009 at 11:23 pm
Hi Robin
You are kind of right. The 20 watt 38 degree Osram IRC energy saving halogen will use slightly more power but give you better light output than the 18W CFL GU10 except you must consider the slight energy loss at the transformer too. But you must to also consider that they are different kind of light too. The halogen dichroic IRC is a spot light with a focused narrow beam. The CFL will give you a very wide flood type light but not as much light in a specific area but may have a higher stated light output.
As far as giving you concise data that is difficult. When a globe has a reflector built on it the light output is measured in candelas (Cd). When a light doesnt have a reflector it is usually measured in lumens. There are a few online calculators that claim to able to convert lumens and candelas but they arent accurate as they dont take into account the beam angles
18W GU10 CFL = 400 lumens ( as this lamp doesnt have a fixed angle dichroic reflector the light goes everywhere)
20 Watt IRC 36 Degrees = 1000 Cd
20 Watt IRC 60 Degrees = 450 Cd
As you probably have read I have used the 20 watt 38 degree beam IRC and love them. If I had the opportunity to start again I wouldnt install halogens though (but that is a different story).
Let me know how many you need if you decide with the IRC and I can give you a quantity discount
Kind regards
Daniel
shop@lightingpro.com.au
May 23rd, 2009 at 1:12 pm
Hello Daniel,I have a house full of [>80]downlights Sylvania Hi-Spot ES 63, GU10 with 63mm head diameter, 240V. As they have 75w you may understand my desire to replace them.
My first choice would be LED spots. Manufacturers in China offer them in the meantime with 96 LEDs and in warm white, 120 degree angle. There are two problems, firstly I cannot find any Australian supplier of such lamps and secondly I am confused about what they really are offering, they are talking about GU20 and my suspicion is that they are meaning GU10 base with 63mm head.
I have also looked at refector CFLs however they are so ugluy and probaly protuding from the lamp base.
Have you got any suggestion?
Thanks
Hans
May 23rd, 2009 at 4:47 pm
Hi Hans
It sounds like you have yet another GU10 Halogen nightmare on your hands. These 63mm ones are expensive too – OUCH!
The sad thing though is that I dont really have a satisfactory answer for you either. I havent seen any LED versions at all in the market in Australia for a replacement of the 63mm GU10. There arent that many 63mm halogens in circulation in Australia to make it worthwhile I would think. I think you may find that Sylvania made them for a specific fitting as I know Crompton and Osram dont supply them at all. So when there arent to many sold alternative replacements like CFL or LED will be non existent (the manufacturers are clever arent they? Whats that saying? “Got you by the balls!”
I think your only option would be to replace the fittings but that is going to be expensive.
Depending on the hole cut out size these CFL lights may fit it and they look great and give good light
These are a brand new LED fitting to replace halogens and put out an amazing light but they still only compare with to 35 watt halogen which is enough light for most domestic situations
If you want to take a punt from China or Ebay try some of the LEDs first but you find that the light output is pathetic and those old school jam as many LEDS into a reflector dont really produce that much light
Good luck and please let me know how you get on
Kind regards
Daniel
May 24th, 2009 at 2:54 pm
Daniel, thanks for the info, was not aware of these fittings, they look really good, thought of these curly CFLs when I wrote. Replacing the bulb looks a bit like a challange, or is it not?
So that would almost solve my problem if it was not for the slow start up of the CFL, I have replaced all E27 incandescents with CFLs and only after that I realised this effect. If you leave lights on for a longer time, then its not so much of a problem because eventually they reach their full brightness, but if you turn on lights for short periods, ie when passing through a hallway etc, it shows quite unpleasantly.
I’ll still pursue the LED dream and when I come across a reasonable solution I’ll let you know.
Regards
Hans
May 24th, 2009 at 5:52 pm
Hi Hans
No probs at all to get the globes in – the front face comes off and you just screw them right in. The trick is to make sure that you have it set right before you install them as the sideways length is adjustable. If you slide it too far out it will be very hard to replace later!
You should try another brand of CFL if you are finding they are slow to start up. Most CFLs now give you enough light instantly (within a couple od seconds) to get you going!
The LEDs look great but yes I agree they are out of most peoples (including myself) budget right now.
Anything else please let me know
Kind regards
Daniel
May 26th, 2009 at 5:42 pm
Hi Daniel,as I am not getting very far [beyond China Manufacturer] with my LED replacements and so I am considering your CFL proposal. Question: My downlight have 100mm Trim diameter and I guess about 70mm Hole diameter. How do you enlarge the exsisting hole to the 105mm for your downlight without making a major mess? Sorry if this question sounds dumm but I have never done this and no idea how to.
Regards
Hans
July 18th, 2009 at 8:50 pm
hi daniel,
i’m about to buy a replacement for our 240volt gu10′s that have 50 watt halogens.i’m considering from ebay 72 led gu10′s which state(approx 30watt light and 150 degree beam at about $60-70 delivered for 3)or 15-18watt cfl’s at about $21 each.they are for a dining area and i’m only interested in trying 3 at the moment but which would be the best option for the lowest energy+lowest cost+brightest warm white light.or should i scrap the whole fitting for some other type of low energy lighting.
thanks
jason
July 19th, 2009 at 11:58 pm
Hi Jason
I wouldnt waste my time or money on LED GU10 replacements. The light output is less than pathetic unless you have other main light sources and arent relying on them as a primary light source.
if you are going to throw money at the existing fittings then go with the GU10 CFL http://lightingpro.com.au/catalog/index.php?cPath=62_98 your relaibel option here is the 11 watt as they fit into just about any fitting but if you want a true replacement with equivalent light then you should look at the 18 watt but they dont fit all fittings! If you want a solution that makes sense long term then have a look at these http://lightingpro.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=62_117&products_id=441 These are what I am fitting to my place at the moment!
I think you probably knew all this anyway but if you need anything else please let me know.
Good Luck
Kind regards
Daniel
PS If you end up going down the 72 LED GU10 halogen replacement I would love to hear your thoughts
July 20th, 2009 at 12:01 am
We have a straw ceiling (with a rail system)and 50watt gu10′s.we have 6 on one rail and 3 lots of 3 on others.there are 15 all up and we tend to replace a bulb every couple of days!!winter is the worst time.every time one blows it trips the circuit breaker in the meterbox.have you got any replacement ideas(dont want to cut the straw ceilings.thanks mark
July 20th, 2009 at 12:13 am
Hi Mark
You are game – halogens and a straw ceiling sounds dangerous. Hope you have a fire extinguisher handy!
Winter or summer shouldnt make much difference really. Winter everyone uses heaters and in summer everyone uses air con. Both put a huge load on the power grids which means that you get huge voltage changes which means that your globes regularly!
The 18W GU10 replacements are great if they fit into the fitting. If space is an issue you on your light fitting then you may be in a jam I am afraid
The energy saver GU10 halogen may also be an option!
Kind regards
Daniel
December 9th, 2009 at 1:08 pm
Hi Daniel,
I just have my house fitted with low energy GU10 (Envirolux TWF kit – sku 180536, with 11 Watt GU10 warm white CFL) and have encountered insufficient brightness as a primary light source of the house.
I try to look for brighter globe options. Please advise if 18W GU10 CFL will do the job and if so which brand will fit into the above mentioned kit.
Thank you
Eric
June 13th, 2010 at 10:52 pm
Hi,
I’m redoing all lighting in our old house. I think LEDs are the way to go for the future but too expensive now. So I’ll go with energy saving halogens for now. BUT I’d like to change to LED in future so… is it worth it (extra cost involved)to swap the electronic transformers in the halogen kit to the iron core type so they’ll be compatible with LEDs later? Or am I jumping the gun? Might there be some other technologies later? I’ve been thinking about this for ages – I guess there’s no crystal ball.
June 21st, 2010 at 11:17 pm
Hi Lammy
I think you might be jumping the gun.
If I look into my crystal ball I see new LED technology but it wont be in the form of a retrofit 50mm globe. We will see more fittings which are designed as LED fittings from day one that have a built in and well thought of heat sync to help the heat get out of the fitting.
Contrary to popular belief LED globes still get very hot and putting a high power (and high heat) LED into such a small hole really diminishes the rated life of a LED lamp
I would go with what is good value and suits your needs now
I still love this one – it looks like a halogen fitting but has a standard edison screw CFL globe which are cheap to change and last forever. If you are in for a bet I would bet you wouldnt pick out the CFL if you choose a nice warm colour as the light is the same colour as a halogen
Any way if you need any further info please let me know
Kind regards
Daniel
August 5th, 2010 at 8:49 pm
Daniel
I am currently building a house, and contemplating installing 6 downlights in a 7m x 4m area in a 3×2 configuration. The area is in between 2 floors of a house, so I only get one shot at it. I told the builder I want dimmable downlights, and they have suggested GU10 halogens. After reading what you have had to say about them, I am having second thoughts – especially when you said that once they are installed you can’t do anything about it. I’m not sure what you are saying here. What say a much better technology comes along in a few years time? Are you saying that I can’t replace the entire downlights with this new technology? (assuming the new downlight dimensions are similar of course). Also, are the 6 downlights in the configuration I have suggested going to be enough light for the area?
I’m new to all this, so any help would be appreciated. I also don’t have a great deal of time, because the wiring will be starting soon!
Regards
John.
August 10th, 2010 at 6:38 am
Hello Daniel,
I am impressed by your knowledge on these lamps. I need to install 4x gu10′s in a lamp I already got… or get rid of it and install other lighting.
I want to have dimmable ligthing of up to 4x standard 50W GU10 240V halogens. I like the warmth of these but can’t bear their inefficiency… I had a look at CFL and LED but am pretty confused at the minute… What would you do?
Many thanks,
Mariano
August 14th, 2010 at 6:06 pm
Hi John
What the builder has suggested may be the easiest and quickest solution for you as this is a one off area especially if it an area that isnt used that often.
These globes will not last long, give poor light (compared to the 12V halogens) and use lots of energy. But when you put in perspective that is it is only 6 lamps it might not be so bad
The reason the builder has suggested them is that they dont require transformers so in that respect it easier for the electrician to install as they connect direct to the mains power.
The reason you will be stuck with them is that there wil be no dimmable GU10 CFL available because I cant see the dimmable technology getting that small. We are starting to see LED technology now that is the same light output as 12V halogens but the physical LED units are much larger in size and require dedicated LED transformers to run them.
Hope this make sense and apologies for the slow response
Kind regards
Daniel
August 14th, 2010 at 6:11 pm
Hi Mariano
You are right. They are inefficient and they get damn hot
I dont think you will find a CFL or LED option that
1> is dimmable
2> will provide the same light output
We do have a GU10 Halogen that is ever so slightly more efficient that may be worth a look at
Sorry I couldnt be the bearer of better news for you
Kind regards
Daniel
September 22nd, 2010 at 1:50 pm
Hi,
Having just read your forum I can see that you have some very good experience & information.
In 2008 I replaced 12 old coil transformers/50W Halogens with Nelson Traling Edge transformers / Osram Decostar IRC MR16 60° Halogen downlights. I’ve been generally happy with the results. I will upgrade these next year to GU10 LED’s as I don’t want the hassle and expense of the addition work required to make the transformers compatible with MR16 LED’s.
In Aug 2010 I replaced 3 old 18W CFL pendant Hall Lights with 5 x 9W(3 x 3W) GU10 LED’s again with reasonably good results.
In the same hall a also installed 5 x 5W (Osram Halostar) Halogen recessed wall lights at knee level which provide good economical ambient light down the length of the hall.
Prior to installing the above, I experimented with megaman 11W CFL’s and another brand 14W CFL’s and I think you’re right, you really need 18W CFL’s to get good useable light. The only problem with the CFL’s is the delay time to reach full illumination, the heat build up in lamp, the mercury, the shortening of the globe life by frequent switching (kids) and also the concerns with EMF
Now I’m looking at a few more projects that you may be able to help me with.
A friend has a cellar with 2500mm ceiling which currently has 10 x old coil transformers and 50W MR16 Halogens. We’re about to insulate the 280mm ceiling cavity and need to bring the lighting into the the 21st century.
As a quick and relatively inexpensive option I’m thinking of replacing the old 12V Halogens with 240V GU10 20W IRC Halogens and using 100mm isolators as a barrier from the insulation. I see you have some GU10 IRC’s which I’ll probably go with. Can you advise what is the relative temperature that the rear of the light will experience after half an hour of burn time. I’d also be interested in replacing them with GU10 LED’s provided I could get a 60° spread with reasonable light output for under $30 per light.
Given I already use GU10 LED’s I know they do warm up. The good thing however is they are significantly cooler than both CFL downlights and Halogens. Do you have any stats on operating temps for all four basic lights: – 50W Halogen, Your 20W IRC Halogen, 14-18W GU10 CFL’s and GU10 LED’s between 3-9W This would make for an interesting table of figures…
…Anyway, having followed the progress of LED’s over the past six years I can say it’s been a fairly slow progression towards higher efficiency lights and in my opinion they’re not quite there yet (unless you want to spend ($80-$100 per light). I’d be very interested to get your opinion on when we can expect to see good quality LED’s downlights for around $20-$25 each.
Also do you stock (Osram – Halostar Starlite) globes in either 5 or 10W. I’d be interested in 5 or 10 of these given their 4000h life.
Regards
Nigel
April 18th, 2011 at 9:54 am
Hi Daniel,
Just stumbled across this blog, with the current LED technology what is the current recommendation for a whole-of-house solution ?
Areas include bedrooms // study // family room // kitchen // lounge // HT room // lounge.
All of these I believe may require different thinking as to the type / quantity / placement / dimmability of fittings, as well as BASIX or six-star considerations.
Thanks
Austen.
May 4th, 2011 at 11:04 am
Hi Austen
My money today would be spent on the Osram Coinlight Power MR16 LED downlight globes and fixtures
They produce more light than the halogen alternative and last forever and run on the smell of an oily rag (well almost)
The comparison is here http://lightingpro.com.au/ask/at_last_an_mr16_led_downlight_that_produces_more_light_than_a_halogen/
Send me an email at daniel@lightingpro.com.au and I will be happy to give you a quote when you know what your requirements might be
Thanks for your email
Kind regards
Daniel